Kering announced on Friday, November 6, the appointment of British designer Martine Rose as creative director of the French fashion house Balenciaga. She will assume her duties on November 16 and will oversee the creative direction of the entire house, including menswear and womenswear collections. In this role, Rose succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose departure Kering announced on November 5, thanking the Italian designer for his contribution to the brand's development and his focus on craftsmanship, garment construction, and Balenciaga's creative heritage.

The First Woman in the Brand's History

Martine Rose's appointment marks a turning point for Balenciaga: she will become the first woman to lead the fashion house in its entire 109-year history. According to Kering, this decision represents a new phase of creative transformation within the group's portfolio. Notably, this return to Balenciaga is not Rose's first interaction with the brand—from 2015 to 2018, she consulted for the house on menswear during the tenure of creative director Demna.

From Middlesex University to Her Own Brand

Before founding her own label, Martine Rose studied at Middlesex University and, in 2007, launched her eponymous brand Martine Rose, focusing primarily on menswear. Over the years, she has built a recognizable aesthetic combining streetwear, sportswear, classic tailoring, and the influence of British youth subcultures. Her work has attracted attention not only from the professional fashion community but also from the general public: her aesthetic counts Rihanna and Drake among its fans, while her business partners include Nike and other major brands.

Piccioli's Short but Notable Tenure

Outgoing creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli joined Balenciaga in July 2025 after more than 25 years at Valentino, leading the house for less than a year and a half. In his new role, he sought to refocus attention on the couture heritage of brand founder Cristóbal Balenciaga while developing the house's contemporary aesthetic. In its farewell statement, Kering emphasized his contribution to craftsmanship and garment construction.

What's Next

Martine Rose now faces the task of shaping the next chapter for one of France's most renowned fashion houses. Her return to Balenciaga in this new role feels particularly organic: the designer has already worked with the brand and knows its creative team well, essentially turning her appointment into a continuation of an ongoing dialogue rather than a break with the past.