Renowned Ukrainian designers Olena Vorozhbyt and Tetyana Zemskova shared insights on the development of domestic fashion, working amidst a full-scale war, and their thirty-year creative journey in an interview with the Wave RBC-Ukraine project. The founders of the Vorozhbyt & Zemskova brand are convinced that the Ukrainian fashion industry must continue to function because clothing not only reflects cultural identity but also provides vital psychological support and confidence today.
The Beginning of the Journey and Winning the Nina Ricci Contest
The designers' creative partnership began over three decades ago when they were studying together at an institute. During agricultural field work, the rector invited them to participate in an international sketch contest hosted by the Nina Ricci fashion house to avoid field labor. Having created joint sketches and received approval from the French side, the young authors faced a severe shortage of materials in the early 1990s.
To bring the concept to life, the rector found white leather, which the designers cut into small pieces to create an unusual texture. For this solution, they received an award for the non-standard use of materials, which became a powerful incentive to continue working together. Notably, the contest took place in Moscow, where they first encountered chauvinism and prejudice from organizers and local participants.
Brand Establishment and First International Shows
At the beginning of their career, the designers actively participated in international projects and exhibitions, presenting their collections in France and Latvia at the 'Assembly of Indomitable Fashion' festival. Later, having gained experience and created a collection using their own funds after a trip to Bonn, they managed to complete it just in time for the launch of the first Ukrainian fashion week, then known as 'Fashion Seasons.'
A successful debut in their homeland allowed them to secure the status of permanent residents of Ukrainian Fashion Week and build a recognizable brand. According to the designers, the secret to their longevity in the profession lies in their ability to maintain balance, complement each other, and retain creative enthusiasm even through the most challenging historical periods.
The Importance of Fashion and Industry Resilience
Today, during the full-scale war, Ukrainian fashion continues to evolve, demonstrating resilience and a high level of creativity. The designers note that domestic brands not only preserve jobs and support the economy but also continue to make their mark on the international arena, proving the immense potential of Ukrainian design.
