Brand Matières Fécales made a loud statement at the start of Paris Fashion Week by turning the Place de la Republic into a large-scale open-air runway. The new spring-summer 2027 collection, titled 'The Ninety-Nine Percent,' was entirely dedicated to immigrants, marginalized communities, and the working class. The choice of location proved symbolic, as it is traditionally the place where Parisians gather for demonstrations and social protests, setting the tone for the entire performance.
Background and Protest Concept
Designers Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose Dalton were inspired to create the new clothing line by the contrast with their previous show titled 'One Percent,' which satirized the wealth, greed, and luxurious lifestyle of the global elite. This time, the authors decided to shift the focus to the remaining 99 percent of the population. The concept was based on Bhaskaran's childhood memories of living in social housing in Montreal, as well as the diversity of cultures and religions that surrounded him in his youth. In total, 99 models from non-white communities, including friends, relatives, and regular brand employees, were invited to participate in the runway show.
Evolution of Looks: From White Procession to French Flag
The show was divided into several striking acts. It opened with a solemn procession of white looks, where models showcased tulle jackets, voluminous skirts, and the brand's signature elongated silhouettes, complemented by avant-garde footwear created in collaboration with Christian Louboutin. In the second act, titled 'TRIBE,' the atmosphere changed radically: models moved in groups, resembling street protest participants in military sets, distressed knitwear, and aged leather capes. This part concluded with three women in red, white, and blue dresses, paying tribute to mothers fighting for the rights of their families.
Show Climax and Social Initiatives
The climax of the show in the 'GODS' section was the appearance of models walking around the statue of the Republic while carrying hyper-realistic figures of billionaires on their backs. This visual device served as a direct satire and a literal demonstration of whose shoulders the colossal fortunes of the ultra-rich rest upon. The brand's social stance extended beyond the runway: a portion of the proceeds from the collection sales will be donated to the French non-profit organization La Maison d'Allanah, which provides support and housing for LGBTQIA+ refugees.
