The 59th Ukrainian Fashion Week took place in Kyiv, where Ukrainian couturiers and designers presented their collections for the spring-summer 2027 season. Shows were staged by the brands COAT by Katya Silchenko, J'AMEMME, DARJA DONEZZ, POUSTOVIT and a number of other fashion houses. The shows were diverse and vivid, yet beneath their variety one can trace consistent directions: femininity, elegance, complex tailoring, texture, the suit, lace and transparency. According to the Wave RBC.ua editorial team, it is precisely these accents that will set the tone for the seasons to come.
Fashion week in wartime conditions
The shows unfolded against a particular backdrop — constant air-raid alerts that affect both the hall and the participants. According to business and news outlets, during such periods part of the events and the industry's work is moved into shelters, and the week itself becomes a demonstration of the resilience of the craft and the creative community. Despite this, audiences and guests enjoyed a full programme, and in interviews the designers spoke about working under wartime conditions and about why Ukrainian fashion continues to develop.
The suit as the season's main character
One of the most striking trends at UFW SS27 was the suit. Designers are reinterpreting the classic silhouette: dense fabrics and a strict cut are combined with lace, sheer materials and a defined waist. Suit looks appeared in the collections of many houses, in particular VOROZHBYT&ZEMSKOVA, COVER and ANDREAS MOSKIN SS27. At the same time, light semi-transparency became one of the season's key textures: such materials work best in contrast — they are paired with dense fabrics, jackets and suits.
Peplums, corsets and an emphasis on the waist
The peplum has returned and firmly established itself — an element that many designers have added to jackets, blouses and dresses (including in the collections of TONiA and DARJA DONEZZ). Overall, designers actively emphasise the silhouette and the waist, using corsets, dense fabrics and tailored cuts. Notably, corset elements have moved beyond evening looks and appeared in everyday outfits, paired with jackets and suits.
Fringe, feathers and 'warrior' femininity
The fringe trend is gaining momentum: it has already appeared this autumn in bags and outerwear and, by all forecasts, will only grow in popularity. At the same time, designers are reinterpreting femininity: it becomes multifaceted and even somewhat warrior-like — romantic and delicate elements are combined with accent details, jackets and pronounced shoulders (ANDREAS MOSKIN, II, DARJA DONEZZ, TONiA). Many collections also feature complex constructions and combinations of textures — leather, silk, satin, wool, fringe, feathers and gemstones (the COAT by Katya Silchenko, LINNI CARO, DANIA STINOVA).
Elegance and delicacy as an alternative
Several designers placed their bets on refinement, femininity and delicacy: elegant silhouettes, flowing fabrics, lace, flowers and sheer elements. Such collections were presented by J'AMEMME, PASKAL and LINNI CARO. Thus, the spring-summer 2027 season at Ukrainian Fashion Week brought together two poles — strict, textured 'warrior' strength and airy delicacy — with a shared emphasis on complex tailoring and a defined waist.
